Ahalya’s Blog – I’m not a jewellery person

by Rasvihar on May 20, 2013

“I am not a jewellery person”

I meet a lot of women at the store. I’ve always maintained that my interaction with each of these people is what fuels my design work. One of the phrases I hear quite often from many of the women who visit Rasvihar for the first time is something that helps explain what is also different about Rasvihar and it is this phrase that I’d like to talk about in this blog.

“I am not a jewellery person”.

So what does it mean when a lady tells me this? Does it mean that I am talking to a person who is least likely to enjoy buying and wearing Rasvihar jewellery? Actually it’s quite the contrary.

Ahalya.S - Creative Head, Rasvihar

In India, jewellery was viewed more as ornamentation and not so much as accessorizing. It was sentimental or symbolic of a special occasion or of your status in life. This is what drove a lot of the jewellery designs that were created and sold. Buying  jewellery in earlier generations also had a specific social relevance to occasions.

For many people, their exposure to jewellery is through their immediate family – namely mother, aunt or similarly close relative. Their first experiences of shopping for jewellery have been with older relatives and perhaps in typically traditional contexts. So for many women who don’t care much for ornamentation, the stance of “I am not a jewellery person” saves them a lot of time in looking at designs that they won’t use.

The social need for jewellery has changed over the last generation or so. And as far as spending money goes, gadgets and holidays and lifestyle experiences rank equally high on one’s list of things to do with money.

The concept of value and how we perceive it has also changed. Take the example of homes today – if one had to choose between a regular house and a high-style apartment, many would opt for the latter. It is simply because you only choose the option where you can visualize living your kind of life, expressing your kind of lifestyle.

So too it is with jewellery today.

So when someone walks in to Rasvihar and says “I am not a jewellery person”, I know she is really going to enjoy discovering what we have in store for her. When presented with a range of fine, hand crafted jewellery that is designed to complement a contemporary lifestyle, she finds this stance suddenly un-validated and she ends up stepping “out of character” to acquire many Rasvihar jewels. The reason is simple. Rasvihar exists to create jewels that blend beauty in form with relevance in function to suit contemporary lifestyles.

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The Ruby – Queen of Gemstones

by Rasvihar on May 20, 2013

Every gemstone has qualities that are fascinating. Among them, there is one precious stone though, that talks to one’s heart – the ruby, rightly known as the queen of gemstones. As vivid as our own blood, the ruby speaks the universal language of passion, vitality and warmth.

Gem facts and history

The name ‘ruby’ comes from the Latin rubens (‘red’). Derived from corundum – a mineral termed in Sanskrit as “kuruvinda” – the ruby is extremely durable, docking an impressive 9.0 on the Mohs scale of mineral hardness, second only to diamonds and moissanite. Corundum ranges from pink to deep crimson, depending on the amount of chromium present in it; only red corundum however, is considered a genuine ruby while stones of other shades belong to the sapphire family.

History records that rubies were traded from circa 200 B.C., on the North Silk Road, transported westwards from China. For centuries, the stone has played a seminal role in Asian cultures. Chinese and Indian noblemen wore ruby studded armour and scabbards. Rubies were placed under building foundations as talismans of good fortune.

In southern India, the affluent Chettiar community once traded in rubies from Burma, often getting them crafted into jewellery for temple deities, a tradition leading to the evolution of a range of ornaments known as “temple jewellery”.

Colour, clarity, cuts and more

Colour is the pre-eminent factor determining a ruby’s value. Rubies with a medium to dark red tone – experts term this hue “pigeon blood” – top the price scale, surpassing even diamonds.

As with the diamond, a ruby’s clarity hugely enhances its value. A flawless, transparent ruby commands stratospheric prices, but is exceedingly rare. Paradoxically, a ruby with no rutiles whatsoever (naturally occurring needle shaped inclusions) could indicate chemical treatment.

The cut of a ruby brings to the fore, its vitality and beauty. “Kuchal” or sliver cuts were historically popular in India. Today, the internationally popular cuts that prevail are cabochon, marquise and facets to name a few.

Much like an intelligent, sensual woman with multiple sides to her personality, a ruby displays tantalizingly varied appearances when set with other stones.

In traditional temple jewellery, cabochon rubies are typically combined with pearls to create an impression of warm femininity.

We at Rasvihar love using cabochon rubies to create jewels that have a timeless appeal.

Rubies and emeralds play off each other to create a stunning contrast. While the yellow toned gold enhances their deep shades, the channel settings give these earrings a smart, contemporary look.

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Ruby and diamond – a royal jugalbandhi! This combination has been used for centuries by craftsmen to produce beautiful, enduring designs. At Rasvihar, we love putting these two gorgeous stones together as you can see in this paisley motif  that uses the best of both stones to create a very attractive pair of earrings.

If you prefer to wear jewellery that’s cool and has a very modern look, blue sapphires with rubies will give you the desired effect.

Given the ruby’s numerous shades, the challenge for the designer is to create the perfect mix-and-match ensemble with other gems, a task that we, at Rasvihar, happily take on with love and enthusiasm!

A hard, versatile stone, the ruby adapts beautifully to diverse cuts, settings and finishes.

Cut Ruby - Round copy

Red, white and green complement each other refreshingly. Here a single, large, faceted ruby rightfully queens over diamonds and emeralds that act as contrasting accents.

Cob ruby - Round copy

Where small cabochon rubies are used as accents, a brushed, matte effect used for the metal does not detract from the glow of the stones.

Ruby-Oval copy

Conversely, where large rubies dominate, small, polished gold accents highlight the facet, colour and depth of the stones.

Ruby cob round copy

Cabochon cuts, with their smooth, rounded surfaces impart the appearance of blood drops to rubies and are universally popular.

Ruby-Marquise copyPears cut ruby copy

The deep reds of rubies allow for stunning contrasts. Along with black enamel, the smooth bezel settings and eye-shaped marquise cut stones used here, make for jewellery that’s exotic and dressy. Pear cut rubies are perfect for floral motifs, their petal shapes and glistening deep rose hues imparting a pretty, ultra feminine look.

Ruby Square copy

Geometric cuts like the square are a great way to match ruby jewellery with both traditional and modern attire. Prong settings with minimal use of metal, show off to superb effect, the wondrous glow of these oval-shaped faceted rubies.

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Settings – the Foundation for Fine Jewellery Design

by Rasvihar on May 20, 2013

The blood red of rubies, white effulgence of diamonds and mystic glimmer of moonstone – how they captivate our senses! But how often do we look beyond their obvious allure, at the setting which holds them? In fact, a setting is to fine jewellery what a frame is to a great painting.  The selection of appropriate settings is the foundation of good jewellery design for it is this element that crucially determines how well a stone’s colour, cut and clarity is displayed.

At Rasvihar, we are dedicated to crafting settings that, while enhancing the beauty of gemstones, also define the ‘personality’ of individual jewellery pieces – classic, festive, contemporary or casual, enabling a client to select items that blend with her own persona and lifestyle.

Today, let’s explore how fine settings bring value and beauty to gemstone jewellery.

Pave-setting

Pave setting

Think cobble stoned pavements and you’ll know what this setting is about. The Big Three of gemstones – diamonds, rubies and emeralds – are especially suited for this setting. Numerous tiny stones are closely set to form a shimmering crust that virtually covers the metal beneath.

The clustered ruby stones in these jhumkis continues the theme of  jeweled splendor and its gently rounded facets adds flower like charm to this unique piece.

In these Navratna Jhumki’s, the ‘crusty’ pave setting on the upper halves reveals the beauty of each colour.

The attraction of a pave setting is two fold. It enhances the brilliance of stones; also, the small size of the stones lowers their price.

Channel-Settingi

Channel Setting

As the name implies, channel setting involves placing stones adjacent to each other within long, parallel bars of metal. With clean, unblemished lines, channel settings are especially effective with contemporary style jewellery.

This setting, introduced in the 1980s, is an ideally secure setting for expensive stones. It safeguards the girdles of diamonds from chipping; their edges remain protected all around and immune from unintentional knocks.

The channel setting in this blue sapphire bangle gives a smart and contemporary look.

Bar channel settings – a variation on the same theme – have small strips of metal showing between stones.

Here, each stone appears to ‘float’, suspended between the channels, an effect that is particularly entrancing with ‘cool’ coloured stones like these blue sapphires.

Bezel_Seeting

Bezel Setting

The bezel is an ancient gemstone setting method.  A metal strip is manipulated to precisely match the dimensions of a stone and then soldered onto the jewellery. The stone is then inserted into the bezel, which is firmly pressed against the stone. When finished, the setting neatly embraces the stone, safeguarding its central girdle and bottom from chipping and scratching.

This pretty Palki series earring in a bezel setting has emerald and pearls in a classic design to fit the royalty.

Pearl and Diamonds a contemporary combination of bezel setting earstuds suits women of all ages.

 

 

 

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Moonstone

by Rasvihar on April 1, 2013

Every gemstone offers myriad possibilities of interpretation. Putting stones together, using interesting cuts and settings, creative exploration of combinations and interesting interpretations of their form – these are some of the most exhilarating aspects of jewellery design and crafting. At Rasvihar, we love our gemstones and wish to share the inspiration that we derive from working with our favourite gemstones.

Romancing the Moonstone

The moonstone has a long and interesting history. One that is intertwined with interpretations of the lunar cycle, inner balance and ethereal beauty.
The moonstone belongs to the mineral group of feldspars and in varieties known as Adularia. The special shimmer and silvery light of the moonstone (reminiscent of moonlight) is referred to as adularescence (Similar to the opalescence of the opal stone). In some cultures, the moonstone was sewn on garments to enhance the wearer’s fertility. We of course are far more interested in the design interpretations of this versatile stone to create modern and relevant jewellery.
The shimmering moonstone is highly evocative of feminine energies – nourishing, healing, balancing, sensual and enchanting all at the same time.
Moonstone Jewellery from Rasvihar

Gem Facts & History

Moonstones score 6 on the Moh’s scale against the pearl’s 3 and the diamond’s 10. Like all other gems, it requires careful storing and special care to retain its lustre. Preventing scratches on the stone’s surface will ensure that its adularescence and glow is maintained.

Understanding the Moonstone

The depth, width and spread of the stone determine the beauty of the gem and the evenness of the light.  While creating jewels with moonstone, the cut of the stone is of prime importance in delivering the final look. For it is the cut of the stone that impacts the way light interacts with the stone, which is in fact what we see as the iridescence or glow of the stone. When creating jewellery with moonstone, we believe that it is this light effect of the stone that the design should try to leverage on to create the desired look. The shape in which we use the gem also makes for some very fascinating design concepts. Cabochon or cobbled, marquise, square, rounds, ovals – these are some of the shapes in which Rasvihar has used the moonstone.

Working with high-quality moonstones is absolutely delightful. Moonstones are feminine and versatile and particularly suitable for contemporary jewellery design. Grey, the most popular colour of the moonstone has a universal cultural context that has acceptance in many parts of the world.  The colour of the gemstone is amenable for pairing with an interesting array of other stones to create jewellery that is relevant to the modern woman’s wardrobe.  One of our favourite designs uses the ‘grey’ of the moonstone with the ‘orange’ of coral – making it a striking jewel that is contemporary.

Another favourite combination we love is putting the beautiful pearl and the ethereal moonstone together. This makes for an absolutely elegant look that is timeless and classic in its appeal. Apart from grey, white is another dominating colour we love in moonstones.  One of the most interesting combinations we have derived uses the power colours -that is: Black, Red and White. Black from black pearl, red from coral and white from the white moonstone – come together to create stunning jewellery that is soulful and modern.  One other inspired design uses the white moonstone alongside the blue sapphire for a very aristocratic look.

Taking the design inspirations from the gemstone further, we take care to choose finishes and settings that complete the desired visual impact of the jewel. We have used brushed gold finishes with moonstone and find that this gives a very chic look that many women find attractive.

The joy of working with the moonstone is that it unleashes a torrent of creative energy. We’ve been able to channelize this to create different forms of the moonstone – earrings, rings and necklaces – each form accentuating a different aspect of the moonstone’s beauty.

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